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Old and New Edinburgh Vol. IV


OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Buccleuch Place. 346 way, and from thence along the Gibbet Street northward, to where it is divided from the burgh of the Canongate, to be the Cross Causeway district. By a subsequent -4ct of George 111. there was added to it all the tract?on the north-east of the road leading from the Wright?s-houses to the Grange Toll-bar, and from thence along the Mayfield Loan to the old Dalkeith Road, and from thence in a straight line eastward to the March Dyke of the King?s Park nearest to the said loan ; and the whole ground west of the dyke to where it joins the Canongate-all to be called the Causeway- side district. VI. From the east end of the Cross Causeway southward to the Gibbet Toll, including the Gibbet Loan, to be called Gibbet Street district VII. From the chapel of ease south to the Grange Toll, including the Sciennes, to be the Causeway-side district. VIII. From the south end of the property of the late Joseph Gavin on the west, and that of John Straiton in Portsburgh on the east of the road leading from the Twopenny Custom southward to the Wright?s-house Toll, to be the Toll Cross district The chapel of ease in Chapel Street, originally a hideous and unpretending structure, was first projected in January, 1754, when the increasing population of the West Kirk parish induced the Session to propose a chapel somewhere on the south side of it. The elders and deacons were furnished with subscription lists, and these, by March, 1755, showed contributions to the amount of A460 ; and in expectation of further sums, ?( a piece of ground at the Wind Mill, or west end of the Cross Causeway, was immediately feued,? and estimates, the lowest of which was about A700, were procured for the erection of a chapel to hold 1,200 perscns. By January, 1756, it was opened for divine service, and a bell which had been used in the West Church was placed in its steeple in 17?3; it weighs nineteen stone, cost L366 Scots, and bears the founder?s name, with the words, ??FOP the Wast Kirk, I 7 00.? In 1866 this edifice was restored and embellished by a new front at the cost of more thzn .42,090, and has in it a beautiful memorial window, erected by the Marquis of Bute to the memory of hi5 ancestress, FloraMacleod of Raasay, who lies in teFed in the small ?and sbmbre cemetery attached to the building. There, too, lie the remains 0. Dr. .Thomas . Blacklock ? the Blind P,oet,? Dr Adam of the Higli, School, Mrs Cockburn tht poetess, and others. -. Bucykuch :Free Church is situated at the junc fion ?f {he Ctoss-causeway acd .Chapel Street, I . i n s built in 1850, and has a fine octagonal spire, erected about five years after, from a design by Hay 3f Liverpool, Lady Dalrymple occupied one of the houses in Chapel Street in 1784 ; Sir William Maxwell,Bart., 3f Springkell, who died in 1804, occupied another; and in the same year Lady Agnew of Lochnaw was resident in the now obscure St. Patrick Street, close by. In this quarter there is an archway at the top of what is now called Gray?s Court, together with an entrance opposite the chapel of ease. These were the avenues to what was called the Southern Market, formed about 1820 for the sale of butchermeat, poultry, fish, and vegetables ; but as shops sprang into existence in the neighbourhood, it came to an end in a few years The Wind Mill-a most unusual kind of mill in Scotland-from which the little street in this quarter takes its name, was formed to raise the water from the Burgh Loch to supply the Brewers of the Society, a company established under James VI. in 1598; andnear it lay a pool or pond, named the Goose Dub, referred to by Scott in the ? Fortunes of NigeL? From this mill the water was conveyed in leaden pipes, on the west side of Bristo Street as far as where Teviot Row is now, and from thence in a line to the Society, where there was a reservoir that supplied some parts of the Cowgate. In 1786, when foundations were dug for the houses from Teviot Row to Charles Street, portions of this pipe were found. It was four-and-a-half inches in diameter and two-eighths of an inch thick. The Goose Dub was drained about 1715? and converted into gardens. In the year 1698 Lord Fountainhall reports a case between the city and Alexander Biggar, brewer, heritor of ?? the houses called Gairnshall, beyond the Wind Mill, and built in that myre commonly called the Goose-dub,? who wished t3 be freed from the duties of watching and warding, declaring his immunity from ?all burghal prestations,? in virtue of his feu-charter from John Gairns, who took the land from the city in 1681, ?(bearing a redhdu of ten merks of feu-dutypru omni aZio onere, which must free him from watching, tRarding, outreiking militia, ?or train bands, &c.? The Lords found that he was not liable to the former duties, but as regarded the militia, ?ordained the parties to be further heard.? In.February, 1708, he reports another case connected with this locality, in which Richard Hoaison, minister at Musselburgh, ? having bought some acres near the Wind-milne of Edinburgh,? took the rights thereof to himself and his wife
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liferent, and to his children in fee, and a dispute in law occurred about the division of the property. Buccleuch Place, branching westward off the old Carlisle Road, as it was named, was formed between 1766 and 1780, as part of a new and aristocratic quarter, and in rivalry to the New Town. Among the first residents there was Elizabeth Fairlie, dowager of George, fifth Lord Reay, who?died in 1768. She died in Buccleuch Place on,the 10th November, 1800. The street is of uniform architecture, 270 yards long, but has a chilling and forsaken aspect. The large and isolated tenement facing the south-east entrance to GeorgeSquare was built, and used for many years as Assembly Rooms for the aristocratic denizens of this quarter. ?In these beautiful rooms,? says Lord Cockburn, ?were to be seen the last remains of the stately ball-room discipline of the preceding age.? Now they are occupied as dwelling-houses. Jeffrey, on marrying a second cousin of his own in 1801, began housekeeping in the third flat of a - - - - common stair here, No. 18, at a time when, as he wrote to his brother, his profession had never brought in a hundred a year; and there he and his wife were living in 1802, when in March, Brougham and Sydney Smith niet at his house, and it was proposed to start the Edinburgh Xeview; and these, the first three, were joined in meeting with Murray, Honier, Brown, Lord Webb Seymour, and John and Thomas Thomson, and negotiations were opened with Manners and Millar, the publishers in the Parliament Close ; and-as is well known-Jeffrey was for many years the editor of, as well as chief contributor to, that celebrated periodical. Where the Meadows now lie there lay for ages a loch coeval with that at Uuddingstone, some threequarters of a mile long from Lochrin, and where the old house of Drumdryan stands on the west, to the road that led to the convent of Sienna on the east, and about a quarter of a mile in breadth * -a sheet of water wherein, in remote times, the Caledonian bull, the stag, and the elk that roamed in the great oak forest of Drumsheugh, were wont to quench their thirst, and where, amid the deposit of mar1 at its bottom, their bones have been found from time to time during trenching and draining operations. The skull and horns of one - gigantic stag (Cetvus [email protected]), that must have found a grave amidst its waters, were dug up below the root of an ancient tree in one of the Meadow Parks in 1781, and are now in the Antiquarian Museum. In 1537 the land lying on its south bank was feued by the sisters of the Cistercian convent, and in July, 1552, the provost, bailies, and council, ordered that no person should ?wesch ony claithis at the Burrow Loch in tyrne cummyng, and dischargis the burnmen to tak ony bum at ony wells in the burgh under sic pains as the jugis ples imput to them? On the 25th of May, 1554, the magistrates and council ordained that the Burgh Loch should be inclosed, ? biggit up ? in such a manner as would prevent its overflow (Ibid). In April, 1556, they again ordained the city treasurer to build up the western end of it, ?and hold the watter thairof,? though in the preceding January they had ordered its water ?to be lattin forth, and the dyke thairof stoppit, so that it may ryn quhair it ran before? (? Burgh Records.?) Dr. J. A. Sidey kindly supplieo a description of the original of the engraving on p. 349, taken from the Merchant Company?s Catalogue. ? View of George Watsan?s hospital and grounds from the south, with the castle and a portion of the town of Edinburgh in the distance One of the two fine fresoos which originally adorned the walls of the Governor?s Board Roomin said hospital. . . The paints is believed to have ken Alexander Runciman, the celebrated Scottish artist. He died on the zxst October, 1785. His younger brother John dicd in 1768, pged *? Pasche nixt to cum,? when they should consider whether the water, which seemed to occasion some trouble to the bailies, ?be lattin furth or holden in as it is now.? In 1690 the rental of the loch and its ?broad meadows? is given at A66 13s. 4d. sterling, in common good of the city. Early in the seventeenth century an attempt was boldly made to drain this loch, and so far did the attempt succeed that in 1658 the place, with its adjacent marshes, was let to John Straiton, on a lease of nineteen years, for the annual rent of LI,OOO Scots, and from him it for a time received the name of Straiton?s Loch, by which it was known in 1722, when it was let for L80o Scots to Mr. Thomas Hope of Rankeillor, on a fifty-seven years? lease. Hope was president of U The Honourable Society of Improvers in the Knowledge of Agriculture in Scotland,? who met once a fortnight in a house near what is now called Hope Park, where they re. ceived and answered queries from country people on fanning subjects. Mr. Hope had travelled in Holland, France, and England, where he picked up the best hints on agriculture, and was indefatigable in his efforts to get them adopted in Scotland. In consideration of the moderate rent, he bound himself to drain the loch entirely, and to make a walk round it, to be enclosed with a hedge, a row of lime-trees, and a narrow canal, nine feet broad, on each side of it; and in this order the meadows remained unchanged till about 1840, always a
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