Edinburgh Bookshelf

Edinburgh Bookshelf

Search

Index for “brown square”

Park Place.] THE SOUTHERN DISTRICTS. 345
attempt was made to have the royaltj. extended
over all the southern suburbs of Edinburgh; but,
as that was strenuously opposed, they were afterwards,
by an Act of George 111. in 1771, divided
into eight distrkts in the following manner :-
I. The road leading from Bristo Street westward
by Teviot Row and Lauriston, ?? to the Twopenny
Custom? (in Old Toll Cross), to be called the district
of Lauriston.
been inscribed. Figures of two of these-Mozart
and Beethoven-have been already painted by
a Munich artist, and it is understood to be Sir
Herbert?s hope that the remaining eight will be
added.
Towards the middle of the eighteenth century an
with other thoroughfares leading into it, to be
George Square district.
IV. Nicolson Park, including the crossways
intersecting it, from the Chapel Street to the
Pleasance, and the street along the back of the
City Wall from Potterrow to Pleasance, to be
Nicolson Park district.
V. The Cross Causeway, from the south end of
the Potterrow to the east end of the said cause-
11. The streets of Bristo and Potterrow, from
their two ports to where they join (near the
General?s Entry), and the cross streets between
them, to be the district of Bristo and Potterrow.
111. George Square, with Charles and Crichton
Streets (exclusive of the corner house of the latter), ... Place.] THE SOUTHERN DISTRICTS. 345 attempt was made to have the royaltj. extended over all the southern ...

Book 4  p. 345
(Score 1.46)

......

Book 8  p. 604
(Score 1.46)

urgh Castle.] THE ROYAL LODGING. 77
for woodwork in the ? Gret Ha? windois in the
Castell, gret gestis and dowbill dalis for the myd
? chalmer, the king?s kechin, and the New Court
kechin in David?s Toure,? and for the Register
House built in 1542 by ?John Merlyoune,? who
first paved the High Street by order of James V.
On the east side of the square is the old palace,
or royal lodging, in which many stirring events
have happened, many a lawless deed been done,
where the longest line of sovereigns in the British
Isles dwelt, and manv have been born and
gorgeous landscape is spread out, reaching almost
to the ancient landmarks of the kingdom, guarded
on the far east by the old keep of Craigmillar, and
on the west by Merchiston Tower.? Besides the
hall in this edifice there was another in the fortress ;
for among the items of the High Treasurer?s accounts,
in 1516, we find for flooring the Lord?s
James VI. was unable to take with him to England
-lay so long hidden from view, and where they are
now exhibited daily to visitors, who number several
thousands every meek. The room was greatly
improved in 1848, when the ceiling was repaired
with massive oak panelling, having shields in bold
relief, and a window was opened to the square.
Two barriers close this room, one a grated door of
vast strength like a small portcullis.
In this building Mary of Guise died in 1550,
and a doomay, bearing the date of 1566, gives
1 have died. It is a handsome edifice, repaired so
~ lately as 1616, as a date remains to show ; but its
octagonal tower, square turrets and battlements,
? were probably designed by Sir James Hamilton
of Finnart, the architect to James V. A semioctagonal
tower of considerable height gives access
to the strongly vaulted and once totally dark room
EDINBURGH, FROM THE KING?S BASTION, 1825. (After EwJank.) ... Castle.] THE ROYAL LODGING. 77 for woodwork in the ? Gret Ha? windois in the Castell, gret gestis and ...

Book 1  p. 77
(Score 1.46)

camp, the peace of 1802 came, and they closed
their career of service on the 6th of May. Early on
the forenoon of that day they mustered reluctantly
on Heriot?s Green, where they were formed in hollow
square, and the Lieutenant-Colonel commanding
\
where the colours were formally delivered over to
the magistrates, who placed them in the Council
Chamber, and the corps was dissolved.
When the alarm of invasion was again sounded,
in 1803, in few places did the, old Scottish spirit
THE NORTH GATEWAY OF HERlG?r?S HOSPITAL
read Lord Hobart?s circular letter conveying the
thanks of the Crown and also of both Houses.
He also read the resolution of the Town Council,
conveying in the strongest terms the thanks of the
community to all the volunteers of the city, and
a very complimentary letter from Lieutenant-General
Vyse.
Column was then formed, and the volunteers
marched from the Green to the Parliament Square,
blaze up more fiercely than in Edinburgh. A very
short time saw Heriot?s Green again bristling with
arms, and upwards of 4,000 volunteers were enrolled.
On the 30th of September in that year the
old colours were again unfurled by the Royal
Regiment of Edinburgh Volunteers, mustering 1,000
rank and file, clad in scarlet faced with blue j and
in I 804, prior to the temble alarm known as ? the
Lighting of the Beacons,? there were in Edinburgh, ... the peace of 1802 came, and they closed their career of service on the 6th of May. Early on the forenoon of ...

Book 4  p. 373
(Score 1.44)

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES. 279
juvenile years, amply testified how unremitting were the instructions and care of
maternal solicitude. Naturally of a sprightly intellect, he made rapid progress
in his education ; and, at the Grammar School of Glasgow, he distinguished
himself by carrying away the second prize the first year, and thejrst prize the
three following years of his attendance. At the University, where he studied
for five years, his success was such, that a gentleman of great influence, to whom
his merit was well known, and who admired his character and talents, gave him
assurance of an excellent living, if he would pursue his theological studies in
connection with the Established Church ; but, immovably attached to the
principles he had imbibed from his parents, and adopted from mature jnd,pent,
he politely and unhesitatingly declined the offer, and entered on a course of
theological studies, under the Rev. *John Brown, of Haddington, then Professor
of Divinity to the Associate Synod. After attending the prelections of that
eminent divine, and honourably undergoing the usual course of preliminary trials,
he was licensed to preach early in the year 1776, when he had just completed
the twentieth year of his age,
Before he had been many months a probationer, he received a unanimous
call to become the minister of a new congregation at Cumnock, in Ayrshire,
and was ordained there in the following April, being then only twenty-one years
of age. In the spring of 1780 he married Miss Maxwell, of Bogtown, with
whom he had been intimate from his childhood, and in whom he enjoyed an
affectionate and valuable partner till the end of his life. They had several
children, all of whom died before reaching the years of maturity, except one
daughter. About the same time, he was called to be the pastor of Well
Street congregation, in London ; but the Associate Synod, agreeably to his
desire, continued him in Cumnock. After labouring there with fidelity and
success for the space of nine years, he was translated to Rose Street Church,
Edinburgh, in the month of June 1786.' He received a call some years after
to become the minister of a congregation in Manchester ; but the Associate
Synod, to which he was subject, considering that his sphere of usefulness was
equally extensive in Edinburgh, would not consent to his removal from it. As
an evidence of his unaspiring disposition, notwithstanding his popularity, it may
be mentioned, to his honour, that though the venerable Professor Beattie, in the
College of Aberdeen, voluntarily undertook to procure for him the degree of
Doctor in Divinity from that University, he modestly declined its acceptance,
because none of his brethren in the Secession Church had, at that period, been
dignified with the same honorary title. The degree was conferred upon him
by the University of Pennsylvania in 181 4 ; and previous to that time, a similar
honour had been awarded to some of his brethren by different Universities.
.
Previous to this he stood candidate, in opposition to Dr. Peddie, for the church in Bristo
Street. The latter was successful ; but, so large and influential were the minority, that a division
was the conseqnence; upon which the church in Rose Street was built for his reception. In
Cumnock he was succeeded liy the Rev. David Wilson; on whose death the Rev. Pabert Brown
was ordained to the charge. ... SKETCHES. 279 juvenile years, amply testified how unremitting were the instructions and care ...

Book 9  p. 371
(Score 1.44)

B- Sq-I MISS JEANNIE ELLIOT. =7*
-was compelled to have recourse to a sedan chair
by which he was wont to be carried to Court by
.George IV. Bridge. He died in No. 17, in 1846,
lsurviving for thirty-one years the death of his
favourite and lamented son, Colonel William Miller
of the 1st Foot Guards, who fell mortally wounded
-at Quatre Bras.
No. 3 was the residence, in IS! I, of James Haig,
-of Beimerside and that ilk, who is mentioned in the
? Minstrelsy of the Scottish Border,? with reference
-to the old prophecy said to have been made by
?Thomas the Rhymer, that,
?? Tide tide, whatever betide,
There ?U aye be a Haig in Beimerside?
?The family have possessed the estate for many
.centuries. ?The grandfather of the present proprietor
of Beimerside,? wrote Scott in 1802, ?had
twelve daughters before his lady brought him a
male heir. The common people trembled ?for their
favourite soothsayer. The late Mr, Haig was at
length born, and their belief in the prophecy confirmed
beyond the shadow of a doubt.?
No. 14 was the residence of stout and portly
?Sir John Leslie, Bart., K.H., Professor of Natural
History in the University, the celebrated mathematician,
the successor of playfair, who died in
1832 ; and though mentioned last, not least, this
now nearly defunct square held the residence of
Miss Jeannie Elliot, authoress, about the middle of
-the last century, of the song ?The Flowers of
-the Forest,? who is said to have composed it in
consequence of a wager with her brother that she
.could not write a ballad on the subject of Flodden
.as they were driving homeward one evening in the
.carriage. ?? Yielding,? says the biographer of the
? Songstresses of Scotland,? ? to the influence of
the moment, Jean accepted the challenge. Leaning
back in her corner with all the most mournful
.stories of the country-side for her inspiration, and
two lines of an old ballad which had often rung in
her ears and trembled on her lips for a foundation,
she planned and constructed the rude framework
.of her ?Flowers of the Forest,? in imitation of
the older song to the same air.?
Miss Elliot of Minto dwelt on the first floor
.of a house beside the archway or pend which gave
-access to Brown Square from the Candlemaker
Row, in the south-west corner, opposite the Greyfriars?
Gate. She spent the latter part of her life
.chiefly in Edinburgh, where she mingled a good
deal in the better sort of society. ?? I have been
-told,? says Chambers in his ?? Scottish Songs,? ?? by
one who was admitted in youth to the privileges
of her conversation, that she was a remarkably
agreeable old lady, with a prodigious fund of
Scottish anecdote, but did not appear to have been
handsome.? Miss Tytler describes her, when
advanced in years, to have been a little delicate
old woman, in a close cap, ruffle, and ample snowwhite
neckerchief; her eyebrows well arched, but
having a nose and mouth that belonged to an
expressive, rather than a handsome face. She
generally went abroad in a sedan.
Eastward of this quarter lay Argyle Square (now
swept away to make room for Chambers Street), an
open area of 150 feet long, by the Same in breadth,
including the front gardens of, the houses on the
north side. The houses were all massive, convenient,
and not inelegant, and in some instances,
three storeys in height. The exact date of its being
built seems doubtful, tradition takes it back nearly
to 1730, and it is said to have been named from
the following circumstances :-A tailor named
Campbell having got into the graces of his
chief, the great John Duke of Argyle and Greenwich,
was promised the first favour that peeis
acquaintance or interest might throw in his way.
Accordingly, on the death of George I., the Duke
having early intelligence of the event, let his clans
man, the tailor, instantly know it, and the latter,
before his brethren in the trade were aware, bought
up all the black cloth in the city, and forthwith
drove such a trade in supplying the zealous Whigs
with mourning suits at his own prices, that he
shortly realised a little fortune, wherewith he laid
the foundation of a greater.
He began to build the first houses of this square,
and named it Argyle in hbnour of his patron, and
much of it appears to have been finished when
Edgar drew his first plan of the city in 11/42. In
the plan of 1765 the whole of the south side was
still called Campbell?s New Buildings. But prior
to any edifice being erected here, a retired bookseller
of the Parliament Close, who had once been
Lord Provost, built himself a mansion in what he
deemed a very rustic and suburban quarter, at the
head of Scott?s Close, latterly used as a ministers?
hall. Prior to that, and after the Provost?s death,
it had been the family mansion of Sir Andrew Agnew
of Lochnaw.
Lord Cullen dwelt here in a flat above what was
in 1824 a grocery store; and in the central house,
on the north side, lived Dr. Hugh Blau, the eminent
divine and sermon writer, one of the greatest
ornaments of the Scottish Church and of his native
capital ; and in that house (when he was Professor
of Rhetoric) died his wife, on the 9th February,
1795 ; she was his cousin Catharine, daughter of
the Rev. James Bannatyne, a city minister. ... house beside the archway or pend which gave -access to Brown Square from the Candlemaker Row, in the south-west ...

Book 4  p. 271
(Score 1.41)

William Arbuthnot, who twice held the chair in
1815, and again in 1821. He was created a
baronet by the King in person on the 24th of
August, 1822, at the banquet given to his Majesty
by the City in the Parliament House; but the
patent bore date, 3rd April, 1823. He was a son
of Arbuthnor of Haddo, who, like himself, had
been an official in the Trustees office. In the
interim Kincaid Mackenzie and John Manderston
had been Lords Provost-the former in 1817. He
was a wine merchant in the Lawnmarket, and while
in office had the honour of entertaining at his house
in Gayfield Square, first, the Russian Grand Duke
Michael, and subsequently Prince Leopold, the
future King of the Belgians.
Among the most eminent Lords Provost of later
years we may refer to Sir James Forrest, Bart., of
Comiston, who received his title in rS38. During
his reign Queen Victoria paid her first visit to her
Scottish metropolis in 1842. He was worthily
succeeded in 1843 by the late Adam Black, M.P.,
the distinguished publisher,
In 1848 the Lord Provost was the eminent
engraver William Johnstone, who was knighted in
1851, when he was succeeded by Duncan
M?Laren, a wealthy draper in the High Street,
afterwards M.P. for the city, and well known as a
steady upholder of Scottish interests in the House.
On the 7th August, 1860, during the prorostry of
Francis Brown Douglas, Advocate, there took place
thegreat review before the Queen and Royal Family
in Holyrood Park of 22,ooo Scottish Volunteers,
? merchants perhaps in Scotland, and who had the
honour to entertain at his house, 35, George Square,
the Prince and Princess of Wales. It was during
Mr. Lawson?s reign that, on the 10th of hfarch,
1863, the Prince?s marriage took place, an occasion
that gave rise to the great and magnificent illumination
of the city-a spectacle the like of which has
never been seen, before or since, in this country.
His successor, in 1865, was William Chambers,
LL. D., the well-known Scottish writer, and member
of the eminent publishing firm of W. and
R. Chambers, High Street, during whose double
tenure of office the work of demolition in connection
with the city improvements commenced
in the block of buildings between St. Mary?s Wynd
and Gullan?s Close, Cannongate, on the 15th June,
1868. A grand review and sham-fight of volunteers
and regulars, to the number of 10,000 men, took
place in the royal park on the 4th July ; and subsequently
the freedom of the City was bestowed
upon Lord Napier of Magdala, and upon that
far-famed orator, John Bright, M.P. In 1874
James Falshaw was elected to the chair, the j ~ s t
Englishman who ever held such an office in Edinburgh.
He was created a baronet of the United
Kingdom in 1876 on the occasion of the unveiling
by the Queen of the Scottish National Memorial of
the late Prince Consort in Charlotte Square. He
was preceded in the chair by William Law, and
succeeded in 1877 by Sir Thomas Jamieson Boyd,
the well-known publisher, who was knighted in
1881 on the occasion of the Volunteer Review.
CHAPTER XXXV.
INFIRMARY STREET AND THE OLD HIGH SCHOOL.
Blackfriars Monastq-Its Formdation-Destrpyed by Fire-John Black the Dominican-The Friary Gardens- Lady Yester : her Church
and TomLThe Buryiug Ground-The Old High School--The Ancient Grammar School-David Vocat-School Founded-Hercules
RdlLlock-Early ClassesThe House Destroyed hy the English-The Bleis-Silver-David Malloch-The Old High Schml-Thomas
Ruddiman, Rector-Barclay?s Class-Henry Mackenzii?s Reminiscences-Dr. Addam, Rector : his Grammar-New Edifice Proposcd
and Erected-The School-boy Days of Sir Water Scott-Allan Masterton-The School in 1803-Death of Rector Adam-James
Pdans, M.A., and A R Canon, RectorsThe New Schwl Projected-The Old one Abandoned.
INFIRMARY STREET is now a continuation of
Chambers Street to the eastward, and is a thoroughfare
of great antiquity, as it led from the north
side of the Kirk-of-field, past the Dominican
Monastery and &to the Old High School Wynd.
In 1647 it was a double street with one long continuous
line of houses, occupyiing the whole front- ! Dominican or Blackfriars? Monastery, founded in
age of the future infirmary, and having six long
abutments (or short closes) running south towards
the south-eastem flank of the City wall.
On the exact site of the Old Surgical Hospital
there stood for nearly four hundred years a great
edifice of which now not a trace remains, the ... Arbuthnot, who twice held the chair in 1815, and again in 1821. He was created a baronet by the King in ...

Book 4  p. 284
(Score 1.41)

......

Book 9  p. 607
(Score 1.41)

248 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith.
This marriage is also referred to by Nisbet in
his Heraldry,? Vol. I., so George Logan would
seem to have been fortunate in out-rivalling the
?? ane-and-forty wooing at her.?
The house was demolished, as stated, in 1840.
ten patients and inmates, and has a revenue of
A300 per annum. ? BLISSIT . BE. GOD . OF . HIS.
GIFTES . 1601.I.K.S.H:? appears in a large square
panel on an old house near the head of the Sheriff
Brae; and nearly the same hvourite motto, with
THE ANCIENT COUNCIL CHAMBER, COAL HILL.
to make way for St. Thomas?s Church with its almshouses
erected by Sir John Gladstone, Bart., of
Fasque. It is clustered with a manse, schoolhouse,
and the asylum, forming the whole into a
handsome range of Gothic edifices, constructed at a
cost off;ro,ooo, from a design by John Henderson,
of Edinburgh.
The asylum is a refuge and hospital for females
afflicted with incurable diseases, and accommodates
the date 1629, and the initials I.H., K.G., appears
on the door lintel of another house, having a,square
staircase in a kind of projecting tower, and a
great chimney corbelled on its street front; but
as to the inmates of either no record remains.
The Leith Hospital, Humane Society, and Casualty
Hospital are all located together now in Mill
Lane, at the head of the Sheriff Brae-spacious
edifices, having a frontage to the former of 150 feet; ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Leith. This marriage is also referred to by Nisbet in his Heraldry,? Vol. I., so ...

Book 6  p. 248
(Score 1.39)

newspapers of the day, and perhaps discussing
mordi~us the great question of Burgh Reform. . .
After waiting for a few minutes, the younger partner
tips a sly wink across his counter, and beckons
you to follow him through a narrow cut in its
famous Hercules, the Dancing Fawn, the Iaocoon,
and the Hermaphrodite, occupy conspicuous
stations on the counters, one large table is entirely
covered with a book of Canova?s designs, Turner?s
? Liber Studiorum,? and such like manuals ; and in
GLADSTONE?S SAND.
mahogany surface, into the unseen recesses of the
establishment. X few steps downward, and in the
dark, land you in a sort of cellar, below the shop
proper, and here by the dim religious light, which
enters through one or two well-grated peeping
holes, your eyes soon discover enough of the
furniture of the place to satisfy you that you have
reached at last the sanctum sanctorum of the
tine arts. Plaster of Paris casts of the head of the
the corners where the little light there is streams
brightest, are placed, upon huge piles of corduroy
and kerseymere, various wooden boxes, black, brown,
and blue, wherein are locked up from all eyes, save
those of privileged and initiated frequenters of the
scene, various pictures and sketches, chiefly by
living artists, and presents to the proprietor. Mr.
Bridges, when I asked him on my first nsit what
mightbe the contents of thesemysteriousreceptacles, ... of the day, and perhaps discussing mordi~us the great question of Burgh Reform. . . After waiting for ...

Book 1  p. 109
(Score 1.38)

186 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Picardy Place.
It would appear that so early as 1730 the
Governors of Heriot?s Hospital, as superiors of the
barony of Broughton, had sold five acres of land
at the head of Broughton Loan to the city, for the
behoof of refugees or their descendants who had
come from France, after the revocation of the
Edict of Nantes. A colony of these emigrants,
principally silk weavers, had been for some time
attempting to cultivate mulberry trees on the slope
of Moultree?s Hill, but without success, owing to
the variable nature of the climate.
The position of the houses forming the village of
Picardie, as these poor people named it, after their
native province, is distinctly shown in the map of
1787, occupying nearly the site of? the north side of
the present Picardy Place, which after the Scottish
Board of Manufacturers acquired the ground, was
built in 1809.
More than twenty years before that period the
magistrates seem to have contemplated having a
square here, as in 1783 they advertised, ?to be
feued, the several acres, for building, lying on the
west side of the new road to Leith, immediately
adjoining to Picardy Gardens. The ground is
laid out in the form of a square. The situation is
remarkably pleasant. . . . According to the plan,
the buildings will have plots of background for the
purpose of gardens and offices ; and the possessors
of these will have the privilege of the area within
the Square, &c. Further particulars may be had
on applying to James Jollie, writer, the proprietor,
Royal Bank Close, who will show the plan of the
ground.? (Edin. Advert., 1783.)
This plm would seem to have been abandoned,
aAd a street, with York Place, in direct communication
with Queen Street, substituted.
Among the earliest occupants of a house in
Picardy Place was John Clerk, Lord Eldin, who
took up his abode in No. 16, when an advocate at
the bar. The grandson of Sir John Clerk 01
Penicuick, and son of John Clerk, author of a
celebrated work on naval tactics, Lord Eldin was
born in 1757, and in 1785 was called to the bar,
and so great were his intellectual qualities-at a
time when the Scottish bar was really distinguished
for intellect-that, it is said, that at one period he
had nearly half of all the court business in his
hands; but his elevation to the bench did not
occur until 1823, when he was well advanced in
life.
In ?Peter?s Letters? he is described as the
Coryphzus of the bar. ? He is the plainest, the
shrewdest, and the most sarcastic of men; his
sceptre owes the whole of its power to its weightnothing
to glitter. It is impossible to imagine a
physiognomy more expressive of the character of a
great lawyer and barrister. The features are in
themselves good, at least a painter would call them
so, and the upper part of the profile has as fine
lines as could be wished. But then, how the
habits of the mind have stamped their traces on
every part of the face ! What sharpness, razor-like
sharpness, has indented itself about the wrinkles of
his eyelids; the eyes themselves, so quick, so grey,
such bafflers of scrutiny, such exquisite scrutinisers,
how they change in expression-it seems almost
how they change their colour-shifting from contracted,
concentrated blackness, through every
shade of brown, blue, green, and hazel, back into
their own gleaming grey again. How they glisten
into a smile of disdain! . . . He seems to be
affected with the most delightful and balmy feelings,
by the contemplation of some soft-headed,
prosing driveller, racking his poor brain, or bellowing
his lungs out, all about something which he,
the smiler, sees so thoroughly, so distinctly.?
Lord Eldin, on the bench as when at the bar,
pertinaciously adhered to the old Doric Scottish of
his boyhood, and in this there was no affectation;
but it was the pure old dialect and idiom of the
eighteenth century. He was a man of refined
tastes, and a great connoisseur in pictures He
was a capital artist; and it is said, that had he
given himself entirely to art, he would have been
one of the greatest masters Scotland has ever
produced. He was plain in appearance, and had
a halt in his gait. Passing down the High Street
one day, he once heard a girl say to her companion,
? That is Johnnie Clerk, the lame lawyer.? ?? No,
madam,? said he ; ?I may be a lame man, but not
a lame lawyer..? -
He died a bachelor in his house in Picardy
Place, where, old-maid-like, he had contracted such
an attachment to cats, that his domestic establishment
could almost boast of at least half a dozen of
them; and when consulted by a client he was
generally to be found seated in his study with a
favourite Tom elevated on his shoulder or purring
about his ears.
His death occurred on the 30th May, 1832,
after which his extensive collection of paintings,
sketches, and rare prints was brought to sale in
16 Picardy Place, where, on the 16th of March,
1833, a very serious accident ensued.
The fame of his collection had attracted a great
crowd of men and women of taste and letters, and
when the auctioneer was in the act of disposing of
a famous Teniers, which had been a special favourite
of Lord Eldin, the floor of the drawing-room gave
way. ?The scene which was produced may be ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [Picardy Place. It would appear that so early as 1730 the Governors of Heriot?s ...

Book 3  p. 186
(Score 1.37)

......

Book 9  p. 532
(Score 1.37)

Heriot's Hospital.] THE GATEWAY. 369
, nished by Inigo Jones; and yet, as a whole, the
building is remarkable for its bold beauty and
symmetry.
The windows are two hundred in number, and
richly ornamented with curious devices j and nothospital
regular and uniform, and for the more easy
finishing and completing thereof, they give warrant
and order, to the present treasurer, to finish and
complete the south-west quarter of the said hospital
with a platform roof, in the same way and manner
THE CHAPEL, HERIOT'S HOSPITAL.
as the north-east and north-west quarters thereof are
covered ; and with all conveniency to take down
the pavilion turret in the north-west quarter, and
to rebuild and cover the same with a platform roof,
regularly with the other three quarters of the
fabric."
Prolix as this quotation may be, it seems,with
the other references to Wallace, Aytoun, Donaldson,
and Brown, as master masons and architects,
that any uniform design could never have been fur-
95
withstanding that there are so many, no two are to
be found precisely similar.
The hospital is quadrangular, and measures externally
162 feet each way, and 94 each way in
the court, which is paved; it has on the 'north
and east sides a piazza six feet and a half broad.
Over the gateway, which is on the north side,
facing the Grassmarket, is a tower projecting from
the main line, surmounted by a small dome and
lantern, provided with a clock. The corners of ... Hospital.] THE GATEWAY. 369 , nished by Inigo Jones; and yet, as a whole, the building is remarkable for ...

Book 4  p. 369
(Score 1.35)

......

Book 11  p. 9
(Score 1.35)

......

Book 10  p. 315
(Score 1.34)

Bristo Street.] ALISON RUTHERFORD. 329
and conversed on various topics, we took leave
of the venerable lady, highly gratified by the interview.
To see and talk with one whose name is so
indissolubly associated with the fame of Bums,
and whose talents and virtues were so much
fare, where, in the days of her widowhood, as Mrs
Cockburn of Ormiston, resided Alison Rutherford
of Fahielee, Roxburghshire, authoress of the
modem version of the ?? Flowers of the Forest ? and
other Scottish songs-in her youth a ?forest flower
esteemed by the bard-who has now (in 1837)
been sleeping the sleep of death for upwards of
forty years-may well give rise to feelings of no
ordinary description. In youth Clarinda must
have been about the middle size. Bums, she
said, if living, would have been about her own age,
probably a few months older.?
Off Bristo Street there branches westward
Crichton Street, SO named from an architect of the
time, a gloomy, black, and old-fashioned thoroughof
rare beauty.? She removed hither from Blair?s
Close in the Castle-hill, and her house was the
scene of many happy and brilliant reunions Even
in age her brown hair never grew grey, and she
wore it combed over a toupee, with a lace band tied
under her chin, and her sleeves puffed out in the
fashion of Mary?s time. ?She maintained,? says
Scott, ?that rank in the society of Edinburgh
which French women of talent usually do in that of
Paris ; and in her little parlour used to assemble a ... Street.] ALISON RUTHERFORD. 329 and conversed on various topics, we took leave of the venerable lady, ...

Book 4  p. 329
(Score 1.32)

236 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street.
the printing office of this strange genius (who died
in I 799, ?? and there the most eminent literary men
of that period visited and superintended the printing
of works that have made the press of the
?? 0 Willie, come sell your fiddle,
Oh sell your fiddle sae fine ;
0 Willie, come sell your fiddle,
And buy a pint 0? wine.
If I should sell my fiddle,
The warl? would think I was mad,
For many a rantin? day
My fiddle and I hae had.
?As I came by Crochallan,
I cannily keekit ben-
Rattlin?, roarin? Willie,
Was sitting at yon board
en?-
Sitting at yon board en?,
And amang guid companie
;
Rattlin?, roarin? Willie,
You?re welcome hame to
In verse elsewhere
me !?
was accused by Sir Alexander Forbes of Tolquhoun
of stealing a gilded drinking-cup out of his house,
a mistake, as it proved, in the end.
Eastward of this were, in succession, Geddes?s,
W.R.-C.M. ; and the house immediately below it
contained the only instance known to exist in
Edinburgh of a legend over an interior doorway:
AUGUSTA . NI. VSVM . AVGVSTA.
W. F. B. G.
1
These were the initials
of William Fowler, a
merchant burgess of
Edinburgh, supposed to
be the author of ?The
Triumph of Death,? and
the others are, ot course,
those of his wife. As to
what this house was
originally nothing is
known, and the peculiarity
of the legend has
been a puzzle to many.
Later it was the
residence of Sir George liarities of his introducer,
who had become, in middle life, careless of his Drummond, who in 1683 and 1684 was Lord
costume and appearance :- 1 Provost of the city. In those days the lower
Burns notes the pecu- LINTEL OF DOORWAY IN DAWNEY DOUGLAS?S TAVERN.
(From a Sketclr &Y the Author.)
~~
To Crochallan came,
The old cocked hat, the brown surtout the same ;
His bristling beard just rising ill its might ;
?Twas four long nights and days to shaving night.?
At the foot of the close there stood, till 1859,
ground that sloped down to the North Loch
appears to have been all laid out in pleasant gardens,
wherein stood a summer-house belonging to
Lord Forglen, who was Sir Alexander Ogilvie, Bart.,
a commissioner for the Treaty of Union, and who
an advocate.
Adjoining
this is Mylne?s
EY DOUGLAS?S TAVERN.
Henry Mackenzie,
h o t , Hume, and foremost among the
host, the poet Burns.?
Here was long shown an old time-blackened
desk, at which these, and other men such as these,
revised their proofs, and a stool on which Burns
sat while correcting the proofs of his poems published
between December, 1786, and April, 1787.
Lower down the close, over the doorway of a house
where the Bill Chamber stood for several generations,
were carved the date, 1616, and the initials
Square, the entrance to which bears the date of
1689, a lofty and gloomy court, having on its side
a flight of steps to the North Bridge. This-the
project of one of the famous masonic family of
Mylne-was among the first improvements effected
in the old town, before its contented burgesses
became aspiring, and dreamt of raising a New
Edinburgh, beyond the oozy bed of the bordering
loch. Many distinguished people lived here of old.
Among them was Charles Erskine of Alva, Lord ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. [High Street. the printing office of this strange genius (who died in I 799, ?? and ...

Book 2  p. 236
(Score 1.32)

184 OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. rLeith .
but by bringing ordonnance from the Castell to the
shoare, to dins at them so long as they sould be
within shot.?? (Melrose?s Letter.)
Upon this the constable and his cannoniers, with
a battery of guns, came with all speed down, by the
Bonnington Road most probably, and took up a
position on the high ground near the ancient chapel
of St. Nicholas; but this aid came too late, for
Mynheer de Hautain had driven the unfortunate
Spanish frigate, after great slaughter, completely
outside the harbour, where she grounded on a dangerous
reef, then known as the Mussel Cape, but
latterly as the Black Rocks.
There she was boarded by a party of Leith seamen,
who hoisted a Scottish flag at her topmasthead
; but that afforded her no protection, for the
inexorable Dutchmen boarded her in the night,
burned her to the water?s edge, and sailed away
before dawn.
Two years after this there occurred a case of
? murder under trust, stouthrief, and piracie,? of
considerable local interest, the last scene of which
was enacted at Leith. In November, 1624, Robert
Brown, mariner in Burntisland, with his son, John
Brown, skipper there, David Dowie, a burgess there,
and Robert? Duff, of South Queensferry, were
all tried before the Criminal Court for slaying under
trust three young Spanish merchants, and appropriating
to themselves their goods and merchandise,
which these strangers had placed on board John
Brown?s ship to be conveyed from the Spanish port
3f San Juan to Calais three years before. ? Beeing
in the middis of the sea and far fra lande,? runs
the indictment, they threw the three Spaniards
overboard, ?ane eftir other in the raging seas,?
after which, in mockery of God, they ?maid ane
prayer and sang ane psalm,? and then bore away
for Middelburg in Zealand, and sold the property
acquired-walnuts, chestnuts, and Spanish wines.
For this they were all hanged, their heads struck
from their bodies and set upon pikes of iron in the
town of Leith, the sands of which were the scene
of many an execution for piracy, till the last, which
occurred in 1822, when Peter Heaman and Fransois
Gautiez were hanged at the foot of Constitution
Street, within the floodmark, on the 9th of January,
for murder and piracy upon the high seas.
On the 28th and 30th March, 1625, a dreadful
storm raged along the whole east coast of Scotland,
and the superstitious Calderwood, in his history,
seems to connect it as a phenomenon with the death
of James VI., tidings of which reached Edinburgh
on that day. The water in Leith harbour rose
to a height never known before; the ships were
dashed against each other ?? broken and spoiled,?
and many skippers and mariners who strove to
make them fast in the night were drowned. ?It
was taken by all men to be a forerunner of some
great alteration. And, indeed, the day followingto
wit, the last of March-sure report was brought
hither from Court that the King departed this
life the Lord?s day before, the 27th of March?
.
CHAPTER XX.
LEITH-HISTORICAL SURVEY (continued).
Si William Mown?s Suggestinns-Leith Re-fortified-The Covenant Signed-The Plague-The Cromwelli in Leith-A Mutiny-Newspaw
Printed in the Citadel-Tucker?s Report-English Fleet-A Windmill-English Pirates Hanged-Citadel seized by Brigadier Mackintosh&
Hessian Army Lands-Highland Mutinies-Paul Jones-Prince William Henry. .
CHARLES I. was proclaimed King of Scotland,
England, France, and Ireland, at the Cross of Edinburgh
and on the shore at Leith, where Lord Balmerino
and the Bishop of Glasgow attended with
the heralds and trumpeters.
The events of the great Civil War, and those
which eventually brought that unfortunate king to
the scaffold, lie apart from the annals of Leith, yet
they led to the re-fortifying of it after Jenny Geddes
had given the signal of resistance in St. Giles?s in
July, 1637, and the host of the Covenant began to
gather on the hills above Dunse.
Two years before that time we find Vice-Admiral
Sir William Monson, a distinguished English naval
officer who served with Raleigh in Elizabeth?s reign
in many expeditions under James VI., and who
survived till the time of Charles I., urging in his
?Naval Tracts? that Leith should be made the
capital of Scotland !
?? Instead of Edinburgh,? he wrote, I? which is
the supreme city, and now made the head of justice,
whither all men resort as the only spring that waters
the kingdom, I wish his Majesty did fortify, strengthen,
and make impregnable, the town of Leith, and
there to settle the seat of justice, with all the other
privileges Edinburgh enjoys, referring it to the ... OLD AND NEW EDINBURGH. rLeith . but by bringing ordonnance from the Castell to the shoare, to dins at them so ...

Book 5  p. 184
(Score 1.29)

......

Book 9  p. 638
(Score 1.28)

G-s %-.I ?GREEN BREEKS.? 341
incident which occurred in that then fashionable
promenade.
It was in this square, and in the adjoining
suburbs of Bristo Street, the Potterrow, and Cross
Causeway, that those ? bickers? of stones, or street
fights between boys of different ranks and localities-
New Town and Old Town boys, Herioters
and Watsoners-took place-juvenile exploits, to
which he refers in his general preface to the
Waverley Novels.? These dangerous rows were
bickers which took place between the aristocratic
youths of George Square and the plebeian fry of its
vicinity, and it runs thus :-? It followed, from our
frequent opposition to each other, that, though not
knowing the names of our enemies, we were yet
well acquainted with their appearance, and had
nicknames for the most remarkable of them. One
very active and spirited boy might be considered
leader in the cohort of the suburbs, He was, I
suppose, thirteen or fourteen years old, finely made,
GEORGE SQUARE, SHOWING HOUSE (SECOND ON THE LEFT) OF SIR WALTER SCOTT?S FATHER
difficult of suppression, as the parties always kept
pretty far apart, and the fight was often a running
one, till the Town Guard came on the ground, and
then all parties joined against that force as a
common foe, and clouds. of stones were hurled at
them. These bickers, as an Edinburgh feature,
were of great antiquity, and we have already cited
an act of the Town Council published antnf them
in 1529; and Calderwood tells us that ?upon the
Lord?s Day, the 20th (January, 1582-3), the Lord
Heries departed this life suddonlie, in time of the
afternoone?s preaching, going to an upper chamber
in William Fowllar?s lodging to see the bqes
Bicker,?
Scott has told us an anecdote of his share in the
tall, blue-eyed, with long fair hair, the very picture
of a Goth. This lad was always the first in the
charge and last in retreat-the A4chilles and Ajax
of the Cross Causeway.? From an old pair of
green livery breeches which he wore, he was named
Green Breeks. ?? It fell once upon a time,? he added,
?when the combat was at the thickest, this
plebeian champion headed a sudden charge, so
rapid and furious that all fled before him. He
was several paces before his comrades, and had
actually laid his hands on the patrician standard,
when one of our party, whom some misjudging friend
had entrusted with a caufeau de rhusse, inspired
with a zeal for the honour of the corps worthy of
Major Sturgeon himself, struck poor Green Breeks ... %-.I ?GREEN BREEKS.? 341 incident which occurred in that then fashionable promenade. It was in this square, ...

Book 4  p. 341
(Score 1.27)

NioiLson Street.] JOHN MACLAREN. 337
spend a portion of each day in education, often
passing an hour or more daily in learning to read
by means of raised letters, under the direction of
the chaplain.
One of the most remarkable inmates here was
John Maclaren, who deserves to be recorded for
his wonderful memory. He was a native of Edinburgh,
and lost his sight by small-pox in infancy.
He was admitted into the first asylum ir. Shakespeare
Square in 1793, and was the last survivor
In West Richmond Street, which opens off the
east side of Nicolson Street, is the McCrie Free
Church, so named from being long the scene of
the labours of Dr. Thomas McCric, the zealous
biographer of Knox and Melville. Near it, a large
archway leads into a small and dingy-looking court,
named Simon Square, crowded by a humble, but
dense population ; yet it has associations intimately
connected with literature and the fine arts, for
there a poor young student from Rnnandale, named
SURGEONS? HALL.
of the original members. With little exception,
he had committed the whole of the Scriptures to
memory, and was most earnest in his pious efforts
to instruct the blind boys of the institution in portions
of the sacred volume. He could repeat an
entire passage of the Bible, naming chapter and
verse, wherever it might be opened for him. As
age came upon him the later events of his life eluded
his memory, while all that it had secured of the
earlier remained distinct to the last. Throughout
his long career he was distinguished by his zeal
in promoting the spiritual welfare and temporal
comfort of the little community of which he was
a member, and also for 3 life of increasing industry,
which closed on the 14th of November, 1840.
91
Thomas Carlyle, lodged when he first came to
Edinburgh, and in a narrow alley called Paul
Street David Wilkie took up his abode on his
arrival in Edinburgh in 1799.
He was then in his fourteenth year; and so little
was thought of his turn for art, that it required all
the powerful influence of the kind old Earl of
Leven to obtain him admission as a student at the
Academy of the Board of Trustees. The room he
occupied in Paul Street was a little back one, about
ten feet square, at the top of a common stair on
the south side of the alley, and near the Pleasance.
From this he removed to a better lodging in East
Richmond Street, and from thence to an attic in
Palmer?s Lane, West Nicolson Street, where hq ... Street.] JOHN MACLAREN. 337 spend a portion of each day in education, often passing an hour or more ...

Book 4  p. 337
(Score 1.26)

......

Book 11  p. 63
(Score 1.26)

......

Book 8  p. 601
(Score 1.25)

......

Book 10  p. 245
(Score 1.23)

  Previous Page Previous Results   Next Page More Results

  Back Go back to Edinburgh Bookshelf

Creative Commons License The scans of Edinburgh Bookshelf are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 2.5 License.